How to make a sofa: instructions for making

How to make a sofa Table of contents:

  • 1 Parameters
  • 2 Frame
  • 3 back
  • 4 Carapace
  • 5 Upholstery
  • 6 Shield
  • 7 Corner sofa
  • 8 sofa bed
  • 8.1 Sidewalls
  • 8.2 Feet and armrests
  • 8.3 Back and seat
  • 8.4 Finishing and assembly
  • 9 Sofa Book
  • 9.1 Step by step instructions
  • 10 Transforming sofa – its types
  • 10.1 Video: assembling the eurobook on the plywood block
  • 10.2 Video: Chester sofa making
  • 11 Photos
  • 12 Schemes

There are several unusual ways to make a sofa out of readily available materials. So you get the item furniture at the lowest cost.


Sofa frameSofa frame

The first method involves using as a material bars remaining after the construction of large buildings. Except a bar, The following materials will be required:

  • foam rubber, which can be bought at a special store;
  • 21 cm zipper, which will be required when sewing a cover;
  • three zippers of 7 cm used on pillows;
  • upholstery material, for example tapestry;
  • Corner and mesh made of metal.


Scheme of timber frameThe scheme of the frame of the timber

Most of the construction work of the sofa is the construction of the supporting structure of the timber. To make the process more convenient, it is worth making a choice in favor of a beam with a size of 7 × 21 cm, from which you will also make furniture legs.


Frame corner sofaFrame corner sofa

No less important in this matter is the collection of a strong back for the sofa. Since this version of the sofa is quite simple and not provides for a folding system, then the back is made similarly with the frame base. The back is fixed on base with thick metal corners as tight as possible. How much the back will be inclined to choose only for you, relying on your feelings.

Shell mesh


In the third stage of work, you will make a grill for supports on the sofa frame needed to hold the pillows for seats. This is done using a metal shell mesh from old bed. Fixing the mesh on a wooden base metal brackets, you get the desired result. For more reliable stick to the longitudinal frame beams somewhat transverse.



Proceed with soft upholstery in the following sequence:

  • cut two pieces of foam corresponding to the size sofa back and a thickness of at least 15 cm;
  • sew the cut-out elements with material, such as a tapestry, connecting them with lightning;
  • using decorative tape, attach mattresses to the carrier designs. You will receive a tape from an upholstery material and a flypaper. Fasten one end of the tape to the frame with small studs, and another on a tapestry case;
  • stitching three covers from the same upholstery and equipping them zippers, fill them with the remains of foam rubber. Should get three pillows.


Self-assembly sofaSelf assembly couch

This method is suitable for people who do not have skills in working with a tree. This option is a little simpler and for its implementation you need to stock up:

  • two old door leaves;
  • staples made of metal;
  • tree hemp;
  • foam rubber;
  • upholstery material.

Wooden optionWooden option Base and the back in this model of the sofa will be two used casement doors made of wood. You will need to pre-produce clean them from old coatings and dirt, and then process grinding machine.

Next, the sashes are painted in your chosen color, while try to match the overall interior of the room, in which will be installed sofa in the future. You can give preference for wood veneer finish.

Using nails, fasten one leaf on a wooden stump appropriate size and then using staples made of metal and glue fix on it the second part (back).

After that, start making a mattress: cut foam the same size with the seat and cover with a thick cloth (for This is ideal matting). Already on top of this material will be stretch bright fabric of good quality.

The main requirement is the construction of the most durable and reliable frame base. It is on him that all the main load, and if you neglect this requirement, you may be injured in operation, and it will last a very short time. Proceeding from this, you can choose another material for the base that meets requirements.

You can beat the finished design as you like, it all depends from your preferences and fantasies.

Corner sofa

Corner designCorner construction

It is not necessary to use a corner sofa complex compounds, for example, stud products, as well as expensive materials. For work, we suggest applying the following material, the volume and quantity of which depends on the size:

  • timber 30 × 50 mm;
  • Chipboard;
  • Fiberboard;
  • plywood, 5 and 15 mm thick;
  • wood screws and screws;
  • nails
  • synthetic winterizer, with a density of 140–170 g / day;
  • batting;
  • foam rubber, 20 and 40 mm thick with a density of at least 30 kg / m3;
  • glue for foam rubber and carpentry glue;
  • foam rubber crumb;
  • furniture fabric;
  • lifting mechanism;
  • furniture legs 5 cm high.

When connecting parts, it is not recommended to use nails. They are quickly shake, and the sofa will creak and as a result fall apart. Therefore, the best way to connect self-tapping screws.

As for the tool, for work you will need:

  • wood hacksaw;
  • miter box;
  • screwdriver;
  • stapler;
  • sewing machine;
  • knife.

Configurations and sizes of corner sofa blocksConfigurations and sizes of corner sofa blocks

Each unit of construction is made of frame, at the base which is a beam, chipboard and plywood. Interior space in blocks 1 and 2 can be used rationally by making removable covers. For their supports along the perimeter of the frame, a beam of 20 × 30 mm is fixed. It is installed below the upper cut to the thickness of the lid plate. To make it easy to lift the cover, you can drill it finger holes.

Frame design block 1Frame design block 1

Block 1 and 2 are identical in design. Their only difference in size. The first block is 100 × 60 cm in size and the second is 60 × 60. The second block will be in the corner of the structure and interconnect the first and third block. As for the third unit, then in it you can make a drawer seat. Thereby the useful area of ​​the sofa will increase. You can set retractable or swivel mechanism.

The drawer will also be equipped with a chipboard lid. If his easy to assemble, then in the manufacture of legs may occur difficulties. Why? When the drawer is pushed into the sofa, they will to interfere. Therefore, instead of legs, it is necessary to increase the height of the front side of the drawer. When folding the corner sofa, she will serve as a reference platform. And to make the drawer easy to pull out, furniture wheels can be fixed to the bottom.

Block 3Block 3

The cover for the third block (indicated on the diagram) can also be make removable. Inside, for example, it will be possible to fold linens.

The size of the seat cushion should be equal to the size of the retractable drawer. Therefore, when the drawer is pulled out, it is removed from the back a pillow is placed on it instead of a mattress.

The design of the back of the corner sofaDesign backrest corner sofa

Now it’s time to make the back to the corner sofa. Process manufacturing looks like this:

  • Position 3 beams horizontally and as shown connect them with uprights. Back height in our case will be equal to 105 cm.
  • The lower second beam will be located at a height of 25 cm. They serve to fix the back to the sofa.
  • The top beam will be used as the base for fastening the skin and provide the necessary rigidity.
  • The frame on both sides is sheathed with plywood 5 mm thick.
  • So that when laying upholstery fabric to avoid the appearance of hooks and irregularities, process all corners with sandpaper.
  • Glue thin foam on the side and front surface, due to this, the upholstery will be soft.

In conclusion, it remains to sheathe the entire sofa, including the backs, selected material.

UpholsteryUpholstery Mount

Before that, do all the measurements, and after cutting out the fabric with allowance for the upheaval. You can fasten the material with a stapler. A place fastenings should be on the invisible part of the panel end. Track so that the fabric does not frown at the corners. Concerning making pillows for the back and seat, they can be made from foam rubber with a density of 140–170 g / day and a thickness of at least 10 cm. Also you will need to sew a cover with a zipper. This will allow, if necessary. remove the cover and wash it.

Sofa bed

Sofa bed

The sofa can carry out several functions. So, you can use for a short rest during the day and for a full relaxing at night. Consider the sequence of work. The description will be attached diagrams so that you can clearly see the process manufacture.


Assembly of sidewallsSidewall assembly

From boards with a thickness of 19 mm cut off two blanks with a length of 775 mm and 381 mm. From them you assemble the A / B frame. Same size cut out panel D from plywood. First, the frame sticks together, and after the glue dries twisted with screws. After that, cut the boss C. Thanks they will ensure the reliability of fastening of bed screeds. The thickness of the boss is equal to the thickness of the frame. These parts stick together with frame and set aside for drying.

Now it’s time to cut the workpiece D (size 381 × 775 mm). In the milling cutter collet, fix the milling cutter. You will select it 3 × 6 mm folds around the entire perimeter of the workpiece, but only with the front side. After that, take 2 panels that will be located on the inside of the sidewalls and connect them with double-sided tape face to face. On one of the panels mark places for manufacturing holes Ø19 mm, which will indicate the end and beginning cut through. Further through both panels you drill in the intended place holes.

Hole making and chamferingManufacture holes and chamfering

Next, draw lines between the holes. Disconnecting the panels cut through the slotted jigsaw. To make sure the slot is even, pass a dowel Ø19 mm inside them. If necessary, emery paper can finish places where the size does not correspond to 19 mm. Finally, the chamfer should be chamfered at the edges of the slits, 3 mm wide on the front side of the part. Paint the bottom of the folds with a stain, so you underline the shadow gap that forms between the border sidewalls and edge of the panel.

Production step by stepProduction step by step

Now you can try on made panels to previously made panels. frames. At the edges, both parts should be completely aligned. After these cut the side and bottom / top trim parts E and F. They must be cut with an allowance of up to 25 mm in length. For their edge joints are cut at an angle of 45 °. Edging connects to frame with glue and screws. Collected as needed the details are sanded with sandpaper.

Feet and armrests

Feet and armrests

To make the legs, cut the block parts G, the foot ties I, spacers J and faceplates H. Connect workpieces G and H between so that the sides and lower sides of the parts come together. After, using a clamp, fasten the workpieces to the ties I and do countersink holes.

The countersink hole is made for the countersunk head screw. To do this, it is best to insert a cap screw into the drill chuck desired diameter. Using drills may form chips, especially when drilling holes in plywood.

The resulting hole is used to connect the ties and legs. Around the lower end of the legs, cut a 3 mm chamfer. Thereafter Sand the resulting item with sandpaper. If desired give the workpieces a special tone or color, you can process them stain.

Spacers J must be connected to the lower sides of the sidewall. Make sure there are no tabs on the sides. Further attached the foot and also it must be aligned along the edges of the workpiece F. Through screed I make a hole, countersink it and connect the parts self-tapping screws. On the opposite side you need to do armrest of the appropriate size. Armrest should protrude beyond the edges front and back, and with the inner panels should be flush.

Backrest and seat

Back and seatBack and seat

To make the back and seat, several blanks: rack M, the upper crossbar N, the lower crossbar O, side bars Q, lining R, rear S and front crossbar T seats. A 50 mm board can be used for manufacturing. what touches the seat panel U and the backrest P, they can be made later.


Now drill holes in the side bars Q and stand M and tssekovki, and to the side bars Q, fix the pads R.

Tapping is a countersink process that implies the cleaning of the end surface. Usually, tssekovka is carried out in the form of mounted heads which have face teeth. This process is performed under the washer, nuts or thrust rings.

In racks, make grooves 38 mm wide. Also make folds on the end of the front crossbar T is 76 mm wide, and at the end of the upper crossbars N and back S – 38 mm.


Fixing stopsFixing stops

Next, in details M, N, O, Q, S, and T, perform sheet piles with a depth of 6 mm To do this, use the router.


The tongue means a longitudinal protrusion on the edge of the board or timber. He goes into the corresponding groove of another board with a similar form. This joining method is known as sheet pile.

After that, take the workpiece N and T and mill on them rounding with a radius of 12 mm. Also do bevels 15 °. At the ends N, T, and S parts make 8 mm deep reamers with a Forstner drill Ø10 mm, and make mounting holes in the center of the counterbore.

ForstnerForstner drill

The next step is the time to make the backrest and seat P and U. Cutting them to a given size around the perimeter of the part, it follows milling folds 10 mm wide around the entire perimeter. At ridges should be formed in this process. They must be included in sheet piles T, S, Q, O, N, and M. Next, sheet piles must be greased. T, S, R / Q, O, M and N and, fixing with a clamp, stick them to the panels U and P. Through previously made holes on parts T, S, N and M drill a hole in the panel and fix the parts with self-tapping screws. IN after you need to glue wood plugs / caps. IN completion these stubs should be sanded flush with harvesting.

Now it is necessary to emphasize V at one end with a bevel. Her it is necessary to press the clamp to the seat at the designated place. After drilling holes, countersink them and fasten with a self-tapping screw. Grind the bevel 3 mm around the end and cut a length of 57 mm As a result, you will need to make 4 such parts and fix them into the holes of the struts of the back. At this point, more needs to be done. four wooden washers, 6 mm thick and Ø127 mm. These spacers Sand smoothly.

Finishing and assembly

Finishing and assembly

To connect the backs, it is necessary to saw out the drawers L. Before assembling the sofa bed, make sure that there are no sharp corners and chips. If necessary, they should sanded with sandpaper. In conclusion, it remains to execute lining, as well as final assembly. Closely sticking to the schemes and set out step by step instructions, you will be able to do all the work by yourself.

Sofa book

Sofa book

Making upholstered furniture is not an easy process. He requires accuracy, care and diligence. We are offering to you read the instructions for making a sofa book, which in the unfolded state will have dimensions of 1400 × 2200 mm, and in folded 1000 × 2200 mm. To do this, you need to prepare the following material:

  • 25 mm thick board: 1000 × 50 (12 pcs.); 800 × 50 (2 pcs.); 800 × 200 (2 pcs.); 1900 × 200 (2 pcs.);
  • timber: 50 × 50 × 200 (4 pcs.); 40 × 50 × 330 (4 pcs.); 40 × 60 × 530 (6 pcs.); 40 × 60 × 1790 (2 pcs.); 40 × 60 × 1890 (2 pcs.);
  • glue intended for foam rubber;
  • staples for staplers 16 and 10 mm;
  • self-tapping screws 89D and 51 D;
  • nails 70 and 100 mm;
  • nuts 8 and 8 mm;
  • furniture bolts: 6 × 70 (8 pcs.); 6 × 40 (4 pcs.); 8 × 120 (4 pcs.);
  • interlining – 4 m;
  • foam rubber;
  • fabric 6 m / p and a width of 1.4 m;
  • Fiberboard 1.7 × 2.75 with a thickness of 3.2 mm (1 sheet);
  • holders (64 pcs.) and wooden slats (32 pcs.);
  • legs 4 pcs.
  • 1 set of mechanism for a sofa book.

Prepare the following toolkit as well:

  • stapler;
  • open-end wrenches;
  • set of drills;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • square;
  • hacksaw.

If you have all of the above, you can proceed to work.

Step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step instruction

The first step is to make frames for the armrest, drawer under linen, back and seats. To start, we will collect a box for linen. For this must be used:

  • 4 beams 40 × 50 (50 × 50) 200 mm long;
  • 2 boards 25 mm, 50 mm wide and 800 mm long;
  • 2 boards 800 mm long and 200 mm wide;
  • 2 boards 25 mm thick (40 mm thick or plywood 20 mm), 1900 mm long and 200 mm wide.

From boards 800 and 1900 mm long, assemble the frame, reinforcing design cross rails. Nailed to the bottom of the structure Fiberboard of the appropriate size. Next, you need to collect the back and sofa seat. The size of the berth should be sufficient spacious, so consider this when calculating. So, collect 2 equal to the frame, size 1890 × 650 mm from a bar 40 × 60 mm. Frame of timber is best fastened with self-tapping screws. To do this, pre drill Ø8 mm holes to a depth of 10 mm. After manufacturing the frame must be fixed lamellas to hold the mattress.

Assembly of lamellasLamella assembly

The next step is to make the armrests. For this purpose chipboard 25 mm thick can be used. Cut left and right armrest, in the sizes indicated on the photo:

Backrest assemblyBackrest assembly

Next, make a wooden frame. In doing so, he must be 20 mm shorter than chipboard size. After doing in the frame Ø8.5 mm holes and insert 8 × 120 mm bolts into them and after that the frame is sewn up. Drill holes on the laundry drawer, only Ø10 mm.

Base BoxBase drawer

Now the individual parts of the sofa are assembled into one. Also A special transformation mechanism is used. When assembling two frames, consider the fact that in the unfolded state between them was not less than 10 mm, and when folded the seat did not protrude behind the armrest.

Frame AssemblyFrame assembly

After this, the frame must be sheathed. Foam is used here. and prepared fabric. Do not forget to also cover the fabric and handle the armrests with foam.

Final touchesFinishing touches

Transforming sofa – its types

Types of sofa transformerTypes of sofa transformer

There are several types of convertible sofas:

  1. Book. This model is one of the simplest. Folding sofa an extra bed is formed. And for the amenities in the back springs are installed.
  2. Eurobook. With easy pulling on the seat, the sofa is comfortable decomposed, and on the resulting free space fit pillows.
  3. Roll-out. The lower part is movable. As a result, it stretches full berth. This model has a major drawback – quick wear of mechanisms.
  4. Dolphin sofa. This type of construction is most often manufactured. angular. When it is moved apart, two berths are obtained. A additional berth rises from under a motionless parts.
  5. Sofa accordion. This model is quite compact, consisting of 3 parts that unfold and fold.

Video: assembling the eurobook on the plywood block

Video: Chester sofa making

If you still decide to buy a sofa or make it to order, then contact the online furniture store. On the Internet you can find inexpensive options of various shapes: both straight and angular.

A photo

Corner sofa of palletsCorner sofa from pallets

Comfortable homemade sofaConvenient homemade sofa

Sofa dolphin with drawersSofa dolphin with drawers

Accordion DesignAccordion design

For the receptionFor the reception


Click-gag sofaSofa click gag

Sofa book

Sofa litSofa lit

On a metal supportOn a metal support

Sofa pantographPantograph sofa


Transforming sofaConvertible sofa

Design of the sofa eurobookSofa design eurobooks

Island sofaIsland sofa

Strict sofa bookStrict sofa book

Corner design

Corner sofa bedCorner sofa bed

Corner sofa accordionCorner sofa accordion

Extendable sofa on castersExtendable sofa on castors


The diagrams show various options for making the sofa:

Drawing assembly sofaSofa assembly drawing

Drawing of the assembly of the sofa accordionSofa assembly drawing accordion

Click-gag sofa layoutClick-gag sofa layout

Measurement schemeMeasurement circuit

Build a sofa eurobookBuild a sofa eurobook

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